Newsletters: 7 Sept, 2011

Excerpt from the Market Newsletter originally published on 7 Sept, 2011. View the full newsletter for all the photos and links.

In the garden
The WSU Master Gardeners say that this is the time to plant winter cabbage, choi, and mustard, as well as all that harvesting. Water trees and shrubs less to harden them off, and keep your flowers picked (or at least dead-headed).

In the kitchen
Since we’re in full harvest season (i.e. somewhere between the end of apricots and the beginning of winter squash), how about another round of preserving recipes? There’s already some information in the Market recipe pages, including such classic recipes as dilly beans, kale chips, and two kinds of green tomato relish, but if a little’s good, more must be better, right?

Sweet onion and fennel relish (What can I say? I like fennel–ed.)
8 oz. sweet onion, sliced into thin half-circles
10 oz. fennel, sliced into thin half-circles
1 swet red pepper in thin strips
2.5 tsp. pickling salt, divided
1.5 c white wine vinegar
0.5 c water
0.25 c sugar
2 bay leaves
8 black peppercorns
Place onion, fennel, and red pepper in a non-reactive bowl and sprinkle with 2 tsp. salt. Toss and let stand 4 hours. Rinse well and drain thoroughly. Bring vinegar, water, sugar, and 1/2 tsp. salt to a boil in a large non-reactive saucepan; add vegetables and return to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Pack vegetables into hot jars and cover with cooking liquid, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Distribute bay leaves and peppercorns among jars. Process 10 min. for half pints, 15 min. for pints.

Peach mint salsa
2 c peaches, peeled and chopped (about 4)
0.25 c finely chopped red onion
0.25 c finely chopped sweet green pepper
1 Tbsp. finely chopped jalapeño pepper
2 Tbsp. honey
0.25 tsp. pickling salt
grated rind and juice of 1 lime
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint
Combine all ingredients except mint in a non-reactive saucepan and bring to a boil. Gently boil, uncovered, 5 min., stirring occasionally. Add mint and cook 1 min. more. Ladle into half-pint jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Process 20 min.

Asian plum sauce
9 purple plums, washed, pitted, and finely chopped (about 1.5 lb./1.75 c)
1.5 c brown sugar
1 c cider vinegar
1.5 tsp. salt
1.5 c onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
0.25 c raisins
2 tsp. soy sauce
0.25 tsp. chili powder
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. ground ginger
1/8 tsp. ground allspice
Bring plums, sugar, vinegar, and salt to a boil in a non-reactive saucepan; boil gently, uncovered, 3 min., stirring occasionally. Add onion, garlic, raisins, soy sauce, and spices; return to a boil. Boil gently 45 min, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thickened. Ladle into hot half-pint jars leaving 1/2 inch of headspace; process 15 min.

All from: The complete book of small-batch preserving : over 300 delicious recipes to use year-round / Ellie Topp and Margaret Howard. Firefly Books, c2007.

Index to all blog posts.

Newsletters: 25 Aug 2010

Excerpt from the Market Newsletter originally published on 25 Aug 2010. View the full newsletter for all the photos and links.

Cooking, and reading about cooking
When cucumbers start showing up at the market, it always makes me think of pickles. I’ve never had much success with them, but my mother made jars and jars of them every year. This is one of the recipes she used, perfect for the home gardener with room for just one or two cucumber vines. You can make them fresh as the cucumbers become ready, and we all know how important freshness is for good pickles.

I think Gerry Wilbert was one of my mother’s friends in Davenport (Wash.) in the 1960s.

Gerry Wilbert’s dill pickles
Wash the cucumbers and pack into quart jars with a sprig of dill and 1-2 cloves of garlic at the bottom, middle, and top of each jar. Pour in 1/3 to 1/2 cup white vinegar and 2 rounded tbsp. canning (pickling) salt; top off with cold water. Boil lids 10 minutes and seal the jars; place upside-down for 24 hours. Let cure for several weeks before using. Any jars that don’t seal should be kept refrigerated until used or the pickles will be soft.

Cantonese pickled vegetables
200 g Chinese turnips, peeled
2 carrots, peeled
1 cucumber
1/2 teaspoon salt
100 g sugar
100 ml clear rice vinegar
5 thin slices ginger, smashed with the flat side of a cleaver
Cut the turnip in half lengthways, then cut lengthways into thirds and diagonally cut into 2 cm pieces. Diagonally cut the carrots into 2 cm pieces. Cut the cucumber in half lengthways, remove any seeds and cut lengthways into thirds. Diagonally cut into 2 cm pieces. Place the vegetables in a non-reactive bowl, add the salt, toss lightly, and leave for 1 hour. Dry thoroughly. Combine the sugar and vinegar and stir until the sugar has dissolved Add to the vegetables with the ginger and toss lightly to coat. Leave in the fridge for at least 6 hours, or overnight.

Index to all blog posts.

Asian-style pickled turnips

approx. 500 g. total (just over a pound) salad turnips and carrots (and a cucumber if desired); turnips should predominate
1/2 tsp. salt
4 Tbsp. sugar
7 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
1/2 tsp. ground ginger, to taste
1-2 whole dried red peppers, optional

Peel (if desired) and chop turnips and carrots into pieces less than 1/2 inch thick, peel and cut cucumber into 6ths lengthwise, remove seeds, and cut into 1-1 1/2-inch pieces. Mix vegetables with salt and let sit 1 hr.; dry thoroughly. Dissolve sugar in vinegar and add ginger; pour over vegetables and peppers, and toss to coat. Chill at least 6 hours.

By Dana Huffman.

Index to all blog posts.

Versión en español: this post is also available in Spanish.
Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.


native to: western Asia or Middle East
in season here: late summer
Cucumbers, Cucumis sativus, are members of the Cucurbitaceae family, along with melons and squash, and are technically fruits rather than vegetables. There are two basic types of cucumber: slicing, which are generally larger and have thicker skins (at least in the US), and pickling, which can also be eaten fresh but their smaller size makes them fit into jars more easily and their thinner skins let them absorb brine more readily.

Of course, lots of different foods can be pickled, but cucumbers are the most common these days, so let’s consider pickles for a minute. The word “pickling” refers to keeping food from spoiling by soaking it in a liquid or fermenting it. Fermenting allows food to soak in a solution for long enough that microorganisms can cause changes such as the buildup of lactic acid. Salt is the main ingredient in such brines, although vinegar, dill, garlic, and lime (calcium hydroxide or calcium oxide, not the citrus fruit) are also common. Fermented pickles are often referred to as “brined pickles” but in fact some pickles are “quick brined” or “quick pickled” and not fermented — vinegar or some other already-acidic solution preserves the food, not lactic acid. “Quick brining” produces pickles in just a few days, while properly fermented pickles take several weeks at least.

“Seedless” cucumbers are produced by parthenogenesis, in which the plant produces fruit without pollination and therefore seeds are not developed. If cucumbers make you belch, you may prefer a seedless variety or remove the seeds, but the seeds and skin do have more of certain nutrients than the pulp. Thin-skinned varieties of cucumber generally have fewer seeds than thicker-skinned types, so that’s a possible compromise.

When cucumbers have to travel or be stored any length of time, they’ll probably be waxed. Even organic cucumbers can be waxed, they just have to use chemical-free, non-synthetic wax. If wax is a concern, you’re better off buying nice local cucumbers at the farmers’ market or removing the peel from grocery store cukes. You can also try removing the wax by thorough washing with a vegetable brush. Waxed or not, conventionally-grown cucumbers are members of the “Dirty Dozen,” the 12 fruits and vegetables most likely to have pesticide residues.

Cucumbers contain lignans that have been connected with reduced risk of cardiovasular disease and several kinds of cancer. They have also been found to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. They provide phytonutrients, vitamin K, molybdenum, pantothenic acid, copper, potassium, manganese, vitamin C, phosphorus, magnesium, biotin, vitamin B1, and silica (which is good for your nails). On top of all that, a cucumber is 95% water and contains important electrolytes, which makes it a great snack choice on hot days or when you’re working hard. A couple of slices over the eyes is a popular folk remedy for puffiness, an effect achieved by the high water content and some caffeic acid. Cucumber slices are also supposed to be good for treating sunburn.

Read more:
label-style nutrition information for raw cucumber (with peel)
label-style nutrition information for dill pickles
Medical News Today

Versión en español: this post is also available in Spanish.
Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.

Dill pickles by the jar

cucumbers, washed, as fresh as possible

For each quart jar:
2 rounded Tbsp. canning (pickling) salt
1/3 to 1/2 cups white vinegar
3-6 cloves garlic
3 sprigs of dill
cold water to fill

Pack jar(s) with cucumbers, placing a sprig of dill and about 2 cloves of garlic at the bottom, middle, and top as you go. Pour in vinegar, add salt. Fill to top with cold water. Boil lids 10 minutes and seal. Place jars upside down for 24 hours. Allow to cure several weeks. If a jar fails to seal, the pickles will get soft unless kept cold.

Adapted from: Gerry Wilbert, as told to Dorothy Huffman in the early 1970s.

Versión en español: this post is also available in Spanish.
Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.

Pickled garlic scapes

1 lb. whole garlic scapes
3 cups vinegar
5 cups water
1/4 cup kosher salt
fresh basil leaves
dried red pepper flakes to taste

Boil water, vinegar, and salt to make a brine. Pack hot, sterilized canning jars with whole scapes, 1 fresh basil leaf, a pinch of pepper flakes; fill jars with brine. Close lids, cover with water, and boil for 45 minutes. Keep at least 2 weeks before serving to get best flavor.

From: 2 Sisters Garlic

Versión en español: this post is also available in Spanish.
Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.

Medieval mixed pickles

In recreationist circles, this dish is often called by its amusing medieval name, Compost.

2 lb. total parsley roots, carrots, radishes, and turnips, peeled and thinly sliced
1 lb. white cabbage, cored and shredded
1 lb. hard pears, peeled, cored, and cut up
6 Tbsp. salt
1 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. saffron
2 cups white wine vinegar (divided)
2 oz. currants
2 1/2 cups fruity white wine
6 Tbsp. honey
1 tsp. French mustard
1/8 tsp. each ground cinnamon and ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. each anise and fennel seeds
2 oz. sugar

Bring root vegetables and cabbage to a boil, add pears, and cook until they start to soften. Drain and spread vegetables in a 2-inch layer in a shallow non-metallic dish. Sprinkle with salt, ginger, saffron, and 4 Tbsp. of the vinegar, cover, and let sit 12 hours.

Rinse well and add the currants, then pack into sterilized canning jars, leaving at least 1 inch headspace. Bring wine and honey to a simmer, skim, and add the rest of the vinegar, mustard, cinnamon, pepper, anise, fennel seeds, and sugar. Bring to a boil and pour over vegetables, covering them with 1/2 inch of liquid. Close with vinegar-proof seals and store.

From: Black, Maggie, The Medieval Cookbook. British Museum Press, 1992. ISBN: 0714105562

Versión en español: this post is also available in Spanish.
Esperanta traduko: this post is also available in Esperanto, because Dana is a language geek.